Monday, June 7, 2010

Only 2 days and 42 kms left ... wow, so hard to believe!

Saturday, June 5th
Sarria to Portomarin 22.9 km




A coke machine in the middle of nowhere!

Much of today was spent walking along tree lined roads and pathways; while we walked through many hamlets there were relatively few places to stop for a break. Most of the hamlets seem to be a combination of a few houses and a barnyard thrown in for good measure right in the middle of ´town!´


A corn crib ... we are seeing many in Galicia


We have been told that this is quite a poor region; most of the menfolk have left for the city to find employment.  It is definitely the women who seem to be caring for the farm and the livestock.
The forests were magical in that the trees seemed to be ancient, as did the pathways and it felt like we could have been the perigrinos from centuries gone by; especially so, as there was a heavy mist which hung in the air for the entire day´s journey.












We stayed in a small albergue with roommates from Italy. The restaurant upstairs served some of the finest food that we have so far been fortunate enough to taste since being in Spain. From our vantage point, on a window lined terraced diningroom, we could see about 25 windsurfers doing their manouvers on the lake-dam below.



Sunday, June 6th
Portomarin - Palas de Rei 26.1 km


We began our journey early today. The street lights were still on and so when we entered the forest it was most helpful that we had headlamps. Martin wasn´t so certain about getting up at 5 a.m. to get on the road, but, once we were going he agreed that it was a very good idea indeed.






Many more perigrinos have now joined the journey as it is only necessary to complete the last 100 kms in order to receive the all important certificate called a ´Compostela,´ indicating that the Camino de Santiago has been undertaken. The new perigrinos must collect more stamps for their Camino Passports (approximately 2 per day); whereas only one stamp per day will be more than sufficient for ourselves,to indicate that we have in actual fact completed the journey and have been on the trail since May 6th.


When we arrived in Palas de Rei there was no space available in the albergues and so we stayed in a hostel just across the road. It was not much more in cost and it was nice to treat ourselves to a private bedroom and bathroom. It still takes me a long time to tend to my feet each day; but, for the most part they are not hurting as much as previously.







Monday, June 7th
Palas de Rei - Arzua 29.4 kms

Today was another day with an early start. I had a hard time ´getting going,´ today. Just one of those days! But, after toastada and cafe con leche about 8 kms after starting I was doing a wee bit better.


Again, the countryside is so beautiful and the weather today was very good for walking and hiking. Unfortunately, I began the day in shorts and did not put my fleece on as I hadn´t realized that it was cold enough to see our breath! Galicia is much more damp than the provinces we have just left behind; which is understandable as we are now very close to the coast.


At various points in the day we walked with friends which we have made along ´the way,´ from Australia, Checoslovakia, Ireland, etc. It is quite the feeling to realize that we are all here for the same reason and all coming from all over the world. Perhaps we will see each other again and then perhaps not. There are now only two full days of walking left before the decent from Mount Gozo into the city of Santiago on Thursday morning. I am not sure I will be able to sleep the night before! I do hope that some of our new friends will be there also. Naturally, we hope to go to the pilgrims mass at the cathedral in Santiago at noon on June 10th and possibly again on the 11th.

USA and Australia

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

Holland

Czechoslovakia

China

USA

Australia, Ireland, Australia

USA

A communal meal shared in a mountain albergue.

USA

Holland

New Zealand

Holland and Spain

Ausralia

Germany

Korea

Canada

Austria



England/Spain

Ireland

Lithuania

Lithuania and Lithuania

Australia

White Rock, BC, Canada (travelling by 3 seat tandem bicycle)

An International Community

7 comments:

  1. Hi Carolyn and Martin,

    I notice that you were surprised to see little barnyards right in the middle of some of the towns you were walking through.

    Right now, people across Canada are fighting to raise chickens and other small animals in various Canadian towns. Some areas of Toronto already allow chickens. Kingston has the idea under advisement and wants public input!

    I think it is a great idea. No matter whether it costs more/less to produce your own eggs the whole idea of "being there" to care for animals on a daily basis helps to teach those values that everyone should have and that are necessary for "community building".

    So many people work at regular 9 to 5 jobs that have nothing to do with being a part of any community. If those people were to begin to raise chickens in their backyards their daily obligations/responsibiliiees to living beings might help to cut the rate of worker depression that comes from spending so much of their lives doing disconnected/alienated work [Marxist theory].

    "Old countries" raising barnyard animals in their towns have been inspirational to the "new world".

    Margaret Atwood and others spoke at our SaveOurPrisonFarms rally yesterday. She was excellent--she has an organic farm on Pelee Island. After all the speeches we walked to Regional to post the demand for an Independent Review before the Conservatives sell off the cows at Frontenac Institution. Once the cows are sold the farm will close so there is talk of blockading the trucks if necessary. Even some of the Conservative ministers are not happy with their esteemeed leader and his new prison policies.

    Everyone, agrees that animal husbandry is a restorative and healing thing for prisoners and everyone. The prison farms not only help to pay the prisoner's expenses and give tons of eggs to the Kingston Food Bank every year but they also teach valuable skills/work ethic to many guys who never had a job prior to going to prison.

    Thanks for the nice comments you made about my notes to you. I am so pleased that you and Martin have almost accomplished your goal and although I don't really understand the significance of having to get more than one stamp--I am glad that you only have to get one per day:)

    When speaking to Mom yesterday, she told me that you have longer holidays this year due to it being your 25th Anniversary after graduating from Training College.

    I will mention you message to Mom next time I can pin her down for a few minutes on the phone. Mom is always running somewhere:) Last time I spoke to her she was about to go to the bank, then to the casino and after that to Cooper's for a few groceries.

    What a speed artist! And, I must repeat that I think Mom is a great example to everyone, including her family. Use it or lose it.

    I hope you get another long holiday on another anniversary and take on another spectacular challeng just so I can get regular updates:) This was great. Thanks for doing all the work and letting me just tag along for free.

    Bye for now, I have had a challenging and very hard day today but tomorrow I will think of you almost at the end of your Camino!
    Yeah!!! Rah! Rah! Rah!

    Love, Matuga

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  2. Almost there! Yay!
    We are praying for you guys.
    Xoxo
    charis, Andrew, Joel & Tobias

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  3. Hi Carolyn and Martin,

    It is amazing to see how fast you guys have been going since we had dinner with you in the place that we can not remember the name of. It had the little court yard and the storks on the church in front.

    Today is the 8th and we are in Sarria and still have quite a ways to go. Our feet were fine until the descent into Triacastela. Tendonitis acting up again! So we are doing about 20K a day. And it started raining after weeks and weeks of sun and heat. So we plan to be there sunday or monday. No 30K days for us I´m afraid.

    Met a nice Brazilian couple some days ago. The will be getting married on the 9th in a chapel of the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela at 5 PM. They have a special fondness for Dutch and Canadians, so if you want to experience a Camino wedding, be sure to attend. Their names are Fabio and Debra. As the are a long way from home maybe you can round up some more pelgrims.

    Hope you have a wonderful time for the rest of your trip. Try to visit the Mezquite in Cordoba on you way to Malaga en when in Malaga take the daytrip to Granada to see the Alhambra. You have to make reservations for a time slot for the latter.

    We will be thinking about you tomorrow when it is your day to arrive in Santiago de Compostela.

    Buen camino!
    Pepita y Evelien

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  4. June 9th--1:00 AM--I had to check to see where you are at before I head to bed. I spoke to Mom tonight and she was happy to know that you had hoped that I we would tell her that you are thinking of her. She was not feeling all that included today and knowing that you were thinking of her made a big difference.

    Note the time. It is very late here. My landlord did not pay the utilities bill on this house so we are supposed to be without water, gas and power on Monday June 14th. Now that he has finally cashed my rent cheque he better go put something on the bill.

    I will be checking in with the Community Legal Clinic tomorrow to see what procedure to follow but I am certain that I won't be without power on Monday. I have food in the freezer and a garden to water.

    It hope you get the note from your new friends before it is too late to go to the wedding:) And, I hope you have a wonderful time unwinding from the stress and strain of your "pilgrimage".


    Love to both of you,
    Matuga

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  5. JoAnna
    Dear Carolyn and Martin,
    Congratulations...you are almost there...or when you read this you have already arrived in Santiago. WOW!!!!!!!!!! Speaking from someone who has done it. Again, how wonderful for you both!
    Paul, Forrest and I recommend visiting the folk museum of Galatia if you have time...very worthwhile; officially it is called Museo do Pobo Galego
    As well, we treated ourselves to the most exquisite little boutique hotel which included yogurt, museli and tons of fresh fruit for breakfast in the price, and afternoon tea...such a lovely little hotel..in walking distance (ha) from the main cathedral: Rosarosae 15702 Santiago de Compostela Telephone: +34 981-528-300
    And they speak English extremely well.
    It probably 40e a night but well worth the treat.. Just in case you didn't have accommodation plans.
    JoAnna Battjes

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  6. Just a little note to all, it was wonderful to get your notes just now. We will reread them when we have more time. Such a blessing to hear from each of you. Right now the albergue is getting ready to close its doors and we aren´t back there yet and so must sign off for now.

    Love to all! Carolyn and Martin xo

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  7. Pepita & Evelien,

    Thanks so much for your note ... truly a welcome surprise! We are thinking of you both and praying for you as you complete your Camino. We are sure that God will open many more beautiful opportunities for you to experience together and with others as you carry on.

    Unfortunately, we did not receive your note until after the wedding was already over; otherwise, we would have loved to attend.

    It will be great to keep contact up, via facebook, once we are back into our ´normal´ routines.

    I had to chuckle to myself when you mentioned about us being last together in the place that had a courtyard and storks, I know exactly which place you mean; however, I think we both have more stork pictures from so many places that it could have been almost anywhere!

    Keep well, walk as slowly as need be and as you possibly can.

    Love,
    Carolyn and Martin

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